Viskazivaniya Sari Alpisovni
Girl and woman dressed in traditional Mahārāshtrian sāri. A sari, saree or shari is a from the that consists of a varying from five to nine (4.5 metres to 8 metres) in length and two to four feet (60 cm to 1.20 m) in breadth that is typically wrapped around the waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, baring the. There are various styles sari manufacture and draping, the most common being the Nivi style, which originated in Deccan region of India.
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The sari is worn with fitted bodice commonly called a ( ravike in southern India, and cholo in Nepal) and petticoat called parkar or ul-pavadai. In the modern Indian subcontinent, the sari is considered a cultural icon. Lady being offered wine, Deccan, 1600 CE. History of sari-like drapery is traced back to the, which flourished during 2800–1800 BC around the northwestern part of the.
Was first cultivated and woven in Indian subcontinent around 5th millennium BC. Dyes used during this period are still in use, particularly,,. Was woven around 2450 BC and 2000 BC. The word 'sari' evolved from 'sattika' mentioned in earliest Jain and Buddhist literature as women's attire. The Sari or Sattika evolved from a three-piece ensemble comprising the Antriya, the lower garment; the Uttariya; a veil worn over the shoulder or the head; and the Stanapatta, a chestband.
This ensemble is mentioned in literature and Buddhist literature during the 6th century B.C. This complete three-piece dress was known as Poshak, generic term for costume. Ancient closely resembled dothi wrap in the 'fishtail' version which was passed through legs, covered the legs loosely and then flowed into a long, decorative pleats at front of the legs. It further evolved into Bhairnivasani skirt, today known as and lehenga. Was a shawl-like veil worn over the shoulder or head, it evolved into what is known today known as and ghoongat. Likewise, Stanapatta evolved into choli by 1st century A.D. Between 2nd century B.C to 1st century A.D, Antariya and Uttariya was merged to form a single garment known as sari mentioned in literature, which served the purpose of two garments in one-piece.
The ancient work, Kadambari by and ancient poetry, such as the, describes women in exquisite or sari. In ancient India, although women wore saris that bared the midriff, the writers stated that women should be dressed such that the navel would never become visible. By which for some time the navel exposure became a taboo and the navel was concealed.
In ancient Indian tradition and the (an ancient Indian treatise describing ancient dance and costumes), the of the Supreme Being is considered to be the source of life and creativity, hence the midriff is to be left bare by the sari. Early literature has a wide vocabulary of terms for the veiling used by women, such as Avagunthana (oguntheti/oguṇthikā), meaning cloak-veil, Uttariya meaning shoulder-veil, Mukha-pata meaning face-veil and Sirovas-tra meaning head-veil. In the Pratimānātaka, a play by Bhāsa describes in context of Avagunthana veil that ' ladies may be seen without any blame (for the parties concerned) in a religious session, in marriage festivities, during a calamity and in a forest'. The same sentiment is more generically expressed in later literature., the author of set in fifth century BC says that the Avagaunthaha was not used by women everyday and at every time. He says that a married lady was expected to put on a veil while moving in the public. This may indicate that it was not necessary for unmarried females to put on a veil.
This form of veiling by married women is still prevalent in Hindi-speaking areas, and is known as where the loose end of a sari is pulled over the head to act as a facial veil. Based on sculptures and paintings, tight bodices or cholis are believed have evolved between 2nd century B.C to 6th century A.D in various regional styles. Early cholis were front covering tied at the back; this style was more common in parts of ancient northern India.
This ancient form of bodice or choli are still common in the state of today. Varies styles of decorative traditional embroidery like gota patti, mochi, pakko, kharak, suf, kathi, phulkari and gamthi are done on cholis. In Southern parts of India, choli is known as ravikie which is tied at the front instead of back, kasuti is traditional form of embroidery used for cholis in this region.